Q&A #49: No Limit Hold ‘em Structures
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Eric asks,
In one of your Q&A’s, you say that NL$2/3 $100restricted buyin game at Commerce is a terrible structure. I was just wondering why you thought that. I happen to play that game a lot and record my results religiously and tend to win. I now question whether I’m limiting myself because of its terrible structure and should instead play the NL$3/5 $200 restricted buyin game at Commerce. I was wondering what kind of bankroll I need to play in this kind of game. I’ve tended to use the requirements of 2000x the BB as the standard, but how does having a restricted buyin (at for ex. commerce) change this number? Does it mean I need more money or less? I’ve read and re-read your ideas about becoming a pro and I meet all the criteria except that I no longer wish to play online (due to new legislation, expensive fees of epassporte, and weaker players playing live), and that I’m going to play NL instead of limit since it’s my stronger game. If the smaller games have a terrible structure, how will I build my bankroll so that I can play professionally? What is the smallest game that I should consider starting at and assuming I have my monthly nut covered, how much bankroll do I need for each of the respective stakes and how much do I need to move up? My goal is to eventually graduate from the restricted buyin low-medium stake games to the $10-20 for deeper stacks when I have earned the bankroll and obtained the skills.
I respect your website and writing a lot. I’m currently a UC Berkeley graduating senior. I’ve been playing for 4 years part time and I’ve read (i dare say) almost all of the poker literature or at least browsed everything available at the bookstore. I’ve read and re-read No Limit: Theory and Practice, as well as many other Sklansky books, Harrington’s, Doyle Brunson, etc.
Well Eric, I have to say, the $2-$3 blind $100 max buyin no limit game at the Commerce was one of the worst no limit structures I’ve played. It’s bad because the stacks are excruciatingly short (only 33 times the big blind), and they take a California rake. California rakes aren’t a percentage of the pot size like a normal rake. As soon as you see the flop, they take the entire drop. If I recall correctly, the total drop at the $2-$3 game was $5/hand. So say three people limp for $3 each. There’s a flop. Someone bets, and everyone folds. Out of the $9 pot, Commerce would take the entire $5 drop. (Please correct me if I’m wrong about any of this.) That’s a staggering rake. BTW, I just did a quick search and found a recent thread about the drop at Commerce.
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Tags: cardrooms, commerce-casino, no-limit-holdem, poker

Ed,
Nice site; I’ve been lurking and this is the first post for me here.
Keep in mind the 2/3 blind $100 fixed buy game is not only popular at the Commerce, you’ll find the same game structure at just about all the Los Angeles county cardrooms. In fact Hawaiian Gardens was the first club to successfully use this structure well before the poker boom.
One reason the blinds have to be so high relative to the fixed or narrow spread buyin is because of the “drop everything on the flop” system used in California (and enforced especially strictly in LA County). This requirement tends to prevent a small blind, high (or unrestricted) buyin game from working well. A high buyin relative to small blinds tends to attract stronger players (e.g., I played the 1-3 unrestricted game at the Wynn and experienced seven straight hands with no flop – I’ve never seen anything like this in LA). Anyway with small blinds and the ability to start with a deep stack the pot size on the flop would often be too small to support the sick drop on flop. Although this occasionally happens under the current structure it doesn’t occur too often since $100 bills flow out of player’s wallets like water in a monsoon rain these days. Even the $20 buyin game with 1-1 blinds at Hawaiian Gardens (located conveniently next to the bar) often features games with deep stacks after a while. Yeah, three or four buyins come off the table in drop per hour, but I’ve goofed around in games were each hand averaged a rebuy or two!
Typically though I tend to play the 5/10 $400 or $500 fixed buy games (along with the 3-5 $200 fixed buy game). So long as you have time to play a decent length session you often do end up in deep stack games with a deep stack. The beauty is that when you end up with the deep stack, you’re often the only one who plays the deep stack fairly well [b]and no deep stack shark can take a seat and match your stack.[/b] IOW, if I play a deep stack in an unrestricted buyin game my B- deep stack game (I’m probably being overly generous rating my play) is usually up against C+ to A- deep stack players; in the fixed buy game my B- game is usually up against D- to B deep stack players.
Naturally it’s best for me to work at becoming a stronger deep stack player, but if you want to start deep in LA you are playing a much bigger game and need a much bigger bankroll. I can’t do that.
As an aside, although the Commerce (and now the Bike) have increased their drop by taking an extra buck on the river I see a faint silver lining. That is if this is legal (taking a percentage drop is clearly illegal in California) perhaps a forward thinking California card club can take their drop in more refined pieces, e.g. a $5 drop could be taken $2 on the flop, $2 on the turn, and $1 on the river. I’d prefer the drop to be taken on called action on each street, but sometimes you need to walk before you can run.
Regards,
Rick Nebiolo
PS I no longer work at the Bike
or any other card club.