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4:51 am January 17, 2008
| MustangTC
New Member
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On moving from tournament play to cash play I stacked off a few times and bought myself a book, specifically PNLHE V1.
After studying the book thoroughly I sat down with high expectations that short stack (40-50BB) play should yeild a simple and effective way to apply and practice my new knowledge. However over 5000 hands I am finding myself very disgruntled at the outcome of what I believe to be by the book play, i’ll explain.
It is suggested that by achieving an SPR of 4.5 against a neither tight nor loose player that you can commit with TPTK and similarly an SPR of about 6 is suitable for an overpair. It is understood that these figures can or should be increased or decreased if your opponent is tighter/looser.
My first problem is that it seems to me that always - with exception of some micro stakes games - the only hand that will get all-in with you when you have an SPR of 4.5 is usually better, a draw with correct implied odds or identical. Whatsmore, by creating an SPR of 4.5 you leave yourself no room to find out if your opponent has you beat; it is advocated in the book that when you flop your expected (TPTK/op) hand with a suitable SPR you committ and thus two pot bets (or whatever line maximises your expectation) and you are all in: you are playing blind.
Considering this, every time I find myself all-in I am beat with exception to the situations suchs as when my KK overpair stacks off an opponents AQ TPTK (something that even many tighter players dont do).
Looking at it this from the other side however makes me wonder if all that this strategy achieves is create perfect situations for set miners and turn-only drawers. (For the purpose of simplicity we ignore the blinds and rake and assume one opponent).
For example a pre-flop raise to 10% of the effective stack yeilds an SPR of 4.5. Lets say I hit my TPTK and he hits his set, we are both committed. With a 40BB effective stack for example, the set has paid 4BB to win 40 giving impled odds of 10 to 1 on an 8.5 to 1 shot… excellent for him!
My second example is in the case where I flop TPTK against my opponents 9 card flush draw. Similar situation pre-flop except my opponent has to pay a pot sized bet at the flop to see another card. He pays at the flop 8BB to win 44 giving implied odds of (5.5 to 1) on a (4 to 1) shot… can you see my problem? Am I supposed to give up every time a scare card comes on the turn to deny him correct odds? I think not.
The answer to playing set miners seems simple on the surface: get more money in preflop as this reduces their implied odds. For example a pre-flop raise to just 5BB in 40BB effective stacks, reduces their implied odds for calling from (10 to 1) to (8 to 1) on an (8.5 to 1) shot: we’re now making a slight profit. However when you consider that the times you miss and you are bet off the pot or you cbet and he floats you before checking down and when more money is in the pot as per extra callers or the recognised value of the blinds, his implied odds increase further.
Considering this I am currently advocating only committing to hands when there is a clear second best hand such as in the KK over AQ example and of course to be prepared to set mine and draw to 10% preflop like crazy as single pair hands rarely win an all-in pot.
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8:23 am January 17, 2008
| threads13
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Before I comment further, what games are you playing in? What level? Online or live? How tight is the game?
Edit:
You know, I think it is safe to assume it is a tight online game, so I am going to speak under those assumptions. Definitely let me know if this is off.
I think the problems you are having are broken down into a couple different big issues. You are saying that the book says hit an SPR of 4 and then commit, but the book doesn’t make it that simple. For starters, if you are playing against tight players then an SPR of 4 may be too high to commit with. Your target SPR may actually be something like 2. Thus, the situation you are illustrating definitely may not be profitable. You will want to be conditionally committed. What I mean is that there may be hands that you can get to put in money, but if you get raised, you will know that you are behind often enough that you can fold. Said another way, if they are a tight and straightforward player it may often be correct to make a fold even after you went past the commitment threshold. Obvioulsy, you have to be careful here, but if you are reading hands then you should tend to make the right play. In fact, it’s all about reading hands.
I also want to point out a few mistakes in your reasoning:
You said:
"For example a pre-flop raise to 10% of the effective stack yeilds an
SPR of 4.5. Lets say I hit my TPTK and he hits his set, we are both
committed. With a 40BB effective stack for example, the set has paid
4BB to win 40 giving impled odds of 10 to 1 on an 8.5 to 1 shot…
excellent for him!"
This is one example where he had the implied odds. However, his implied odds on his preflop call are really figured from what he will make on average in that spot. Meaning, he won’t always stack you. You will miss the flop sometimes, you will hit an overset sometimes, you will get away from your hand sometimes. This means that his implied odds aren’t the maximum amount that he can win. Implied odds are what he will win on average. On average he will win significantly less than your stack when he hits. He may only win half of it on average. Even less.
I think you are on the right track though. You need to read their hands. If you have AK on a K65 flop and you get c/r all in that offers you 2:1 by a tight limp-caller from EP with stats of like 11/5, then your equity is probably significantly lower tjhan the required 33%.
Still, you can make money from these players, but it isn’t so much from making best hands.
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1:42 pm January 17, 2008
| tobori
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i’ve noticed that few posts on this site refer to the
complicated SPR tactics in the book and suspect i’m
not the only one who tried and failed to apply the concepts.
i’m certainly not saying the concepts aren’t valuable and
consider the fault my own. i infer the tactics (SPR) were
not created by Ed himself but endorsed by him and that
means they must have value.
the 2 or 3 pages on how to play a drawing hand alone have helped me tremendously. personally i’m waiting for volume 2 that
promises in writing to provide the “nitty gritty” for playing
professional NLH and hope it’s not all SPR related.
SPR tactics, as i understand, are a means to “make decisions easier” but there are always going to be tuff decisions and at my level complicated means to determine a bet size distract me from
more basic techniques and understandings.
i want to repeat i feel it’s my own limitations. “professional” is
in the title for a reason and the authors state they understand the concepts are not easy to apply but worth the effort. i believe Ed
mentionned somewhere SPR bet sizing helped his own game and
i hope to get to the point where i can at least see how the effort turns into cash.
if not this site then where is SPR going to be explained or taught?
tobori
methods to determine a bet size
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2:23 pm January 17, 2008
| munkeyhatecleen
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threads13 said:
Before I comment further, what games are you playing in? What level? Online or live? How tight is the game?
—————————————————————————–
I think you are on the right track though. You need to read their hands. If you have AK on a K65 flop and you get c/r all in that offers you 2:1 by a tight limp-caller from EP with stats of like 11/5, then your equity is probably significantly lower tjhan the required 33%.
I’ll add "and know your opponents" to "read their hands". Sounds like OP may be running into passive villains who’ll just sit back and check/call or flat call their big hands, leaving just enough rope for an aggressive player to hang themselves. It’s a lot easier to get away from AK on K65 when you get checkraised than it is when you get just a call and the turn bricks. :( Knowing that your villains love to slowplay like this will allow you to rethink your commitment decision. SPR DOES NOT mean just firing pot sized bullets on every street - something that I think gets overlooked a lot. With every street and every action you need to be deciding if you’re still committed and Maximizing your Equity against their Range. ;) Going back to the AK on K65 - maybe your maximization line is something like bet flop but slow down when called - check/call or check/fold the turn against a "dead fish" villain.
It’s easy to get thinking that SPR is just about manipulating the pot to get yourself all-in. The key (and part that people seem to get confused about the most) is that you’re only trying to get all-in if you think you’re taking the best of it!
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6:06 pm January 17, 2008
| BTR
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For example a pre-flop raise to 10% of the effective stack yeilds an SPR of 4.5. Lets say I hit my TPTK and he hits his set, we are both committed. With a 40BB effective stack for example, the set has paid 4BB to win 40 giving impled odds of 10 to 1 on an 8.5 to 1 shot… excellent for him!
This also assumes that you are committing ONLY with TPTK. What happens if he hits his set and is still behind your set? He will need > 8.5:1 to break even set farming. I would estimate set farming would require ~12-13:1 to be profitable due to the costly set over set, and not getting paid off everytime you hit.
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5:56 am January 18, 2008
| Baggie Boy
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The levels you are playing at may have something to do with it but I have played a reasonable amount of 50BB starting stacks at 50/1 and 1/2 online and found many players who will commit with worse hands.
The key is not always whether you will commit (although this may change according to player type) but, in my experience, how you will commit. Using a bit of creativity and taking profitable risks are often the way to get yourself all in versus a worse hand. Taking a bet/bet line will usually mean you are only committing against your opponents strongest hands which may often beat you. Obviously you are still going to run into those strongest hands, regardless of what you do, but by taking varying lines to get all in you will see a lot of ‘What the f…’ hands.
You have to give your opponents reason to believe they have the best hand or that they can bluff you off the best hand. Even with 40-60BB I have encountered players willing to believe they can push me off a strong hand because I never played it as a strong hand. What’s important to remember is that SPR helps you commit against your opponents range and some of that range may be bluffs/semi-bluffs. You have to give your opponent the chance to make the commitment for you on occasion. He may not call all in on the turn with a draw or TPWK but he may put you all in with the same hands.
Playing different levels may mean making different commitment decisions but I have found c/raising flops or the Turn, checking behind on flops and underbetting pots, amongst other strategies, all useful ways to get all in versus weaker hands at the levels I play.
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2:40 am January 19, 2008
| MustangTC
New Member
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Thank you everyone for your comments, they have been well recieved.
On considering everything I can clearly see that my key error has been in the neglect of my opponent’s ranges. It makes sense that some opponents are not willing to get all in with less than one pair, just as some will stack off with TPGK. Consequently I will be asking myself on every hand: if I get all in ‘against this opponent’ with my most likely hand, will I be ahead more often than not?
Another question:
If your opponent wont get all in with an SPR of 4 without a hand stronger that 1 pair, should you plan to raise your big pp’s and unpaired cards to achieve an SPR of 2 against them or its it better to achieve a higher one and plan to play a small pot? How do position and opponent tendencies factor into this?
-MustangTC
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10:07 am January 19, 2008
| Baggie Boy
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If your opponents will not commit with an SPR higher than 2 then I would still advocate getting more money in the pot with the best hand if these players play a straightforward game. If the players are tight enough that they will not commit with an SPR higher than 2 then raising to achieve this (with a 40-50BB stack) will mean raising 10+ BB. Whether you are reraising, limp/raising or straight out raising these players are rarely calling those bets.
Since your post I have played approx. 4 hours, on a number of tables, with a 50BB stack (or versus 50BB stacks after doubling up) and have committed with the following hands:
TP - KQ v AT: opponent pushed with 1 overcard and no other draw
OP - AA v 56s : opponent very loose and aggressive called AI with poor pot odds
TP - AK v AT
In none of these hands did I take a bet/bet line.
The above hands are not at all rare, in my experience, when playing with or against 40-50BB stacks. Again this has been primarily at the 50/1 games online.
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8:30 pm January 19, 2008
| Ed Miller
Admin
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I think the high points have already been hit here, but I wanted to pop in on what is an excellent question.
1. Those SPR numbers in the book are guides and can change for various opponents. Inparticular, weak-tight players (set miners included) don’t give enough action with weaker hands, so you can shade those figures down significantly against them. Obviously, you compensate by stealing more. I’ve found many of the smaller NL online games to play in a way I would consider weak-tight.
2. The point about finding creative ways to get the money in is a good one. In aggressive games, jamming with good hands can well get the money. But when your opponents are weak-tighter, checking behind once can do wonders.
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5:53 am January 21, 2008
| threads13
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MustangTC said:
Thank you everyone for your comments, they have been well recieved.
On considering everything I can clearly see that my key error has been in the neglect of my opponent’s ranges. It makes sense that some opponents are not willing to get all in with less than one pair, just as some will stack off with TPGK. Consequently I will be asking myself on every hand: if I get all in ‘against this opponent’ with my most likely hand, will I be ahead more often than not?
Another question:
If your opponent wont get all in with an SPR of 4 without a hand stronger that 1 pair, should you plan to raise your big pp’s and unpaired cards to achieve an SPR of 2 against them or its it better to achieve a higher one and plan to play a small pot? How do position and opponent tendencies factor into this?
-MustangTC
If you can raise more to hit your SPR and your opponents will still call with the same range of hands, then it is fine to do this. However, you want to be a little careful about doing this with hands like AK and AQ in my opinion. You may be better off just pushing with your 3-bet.
One thing I have been thinking about lately is avoiding getting myself unhappily committed by putting too much in preflop. Sometimes I may make a raise preflop, end up at a low SPR, and feel that I have to commit. If I hadn’t raised then I might have been able to play the hand much more profitably.
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